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Of late my three favorite dining experiences all happen to total under $10. I have been cooking at home most nights out of a general weariness with restaurants (this might have something to do with the fact that everyone I associate with can speak of nothing else as they are building one, and I feel like I have been swept up in some very dodgy cult that can’t quite dislodge itself from the birth canal, but also the fact that most eateries all seem a little disappointing. Much of the time something reductive happens on the way from the home kitchen to the restaurant kitchen—perhaps it’s as simple as volume, volume of customers, volume of food being prepared, and number of hands putting out a dish—and things just start to taste less). Apart from this culinary narcissim, economy and nutrition are also contributing factors. Why can’t you eat a big dish of delicious vegetables anywhere? But when not in the kitchen, I happily resort to these venues: Dumpling House at 118A Eldridge Street, where the visuals provided by the cooks are as delightful as the food (try the chives and pork fried dumpling, the sesame pancake with beef, or the chives and egg pancake). Dessert can then be had at the nearby Laboratorio del Gelato on Orchard. For simple but excellent Chinese take out (or eat it there) head to Golden Siu Sam Yuen at 5 Catherine Street (near Chatham Square and East Broadway) for their roast duck (or eel, or salt-baked chicken, or barbecued small pig, or ribs, or lobster) with rice and vegetables. When in the northern territories, two hot dogs with sweet relish and a mango papaya drink from Gray’s Papaya at 2090 Broadway and 73rd, can result in a person feeling deeply contented.
- rachael 10-05-2002 8:10 pm [link] [8 comments]