"WHEN 71 Clinton Fresh Food took the dining world by storm in the fall of 1999, it raised the bar for modest little restaurants all over downtown. It was the "Sex, Lies and Videotape" of restaurants, a surprise low-budget hit that everyone wants to replicate. No longer is it enough to send out decent food at a decent price. Now, every little boîte with 10 tables hopes to have its own cult."